Reports Things to See & Do in Osaka at Night

Japanese performing arts in English at the Yamamoto Noh Theater

On two Saturdays in March, the Yamamoto Noh Gakudo, or Noh Theater* hosts a program of traditional Japanese performing arts, in English.

If you are in Osaka during March, and can attend one of these performances, I highly recommend it. Noh theaters are built to exacting specifications, and this one is no different. The wooden stage with pine tree painted on back wall, low lighting and plentiful use of hinoki, or Japanese cypress, are pleasing to the eyes and senses. And, because all of the performances are in English, you should be able to understand everything.
Even native Japanese-speakers who watch traditional Japanese performing arts like Noh, Kyogen, or Kabuki claim to experience difficulty understanding the use of historical language, place and character names, and the context of the performances. If the Japanese themselves feel that way, then non-Japanese speakers would be completely lost. Several years ago, I was completely lost. Unable to follow a Noh performance on an outdoor stage on a hot summer day, I fell asleep along with many of the people sitting around me.
I don’t want to spoil the experience for you so will keep my description very brief. You will enjoy this and it may even be one of the highlights of your trip to Japan. I am certain that you will not fall asleep on this evening of traditional Osaka performing arts! Each performance lasts about 15 minutes and the pace moves very quickly.
Dressed in a lovey kimono, Haruko Rhoads, as emcee, neatfully introduces all of the performers and skillfully explains each of the genres that the audience will enjoy: Rakugo
(comic storytelling), Koudan (narrative storytelling in an historical context), Noh
(a sort of Japanese opera), Ozashiki-Asobi (games played with geisha and maiko), and Rokyoku (narrative ballad accompanied by the shamisen).

Perhaps the most compelling and dramatic of all of the performances, the rokyoku is aptly saved for the final performance.
A few words of warning: if you are seated in the very front, you will have a cushion on a tatami mat and will be expected to sit with your knees folded the entire time. If you require a chair, you should sit in the rafters or on the elevated seats in the back.

Access: To get to the Yamamoto Noh Gakudo, take the Subway line to Tanimachi 4-chome (T23 or C18). Go out exit #4, head north past Family Mart, and take your first left, down a one-way street against traffic. Two blocks later, Yamamoto Noh Gakudo will be on your left.

By Barry Louie