Reports Things to See & Do in Osaka at Night

Kushi-katsu and Time slip in Shinsekai and Spa World

At night, one of Osaka’s most colorful neighborhoods, Shinsekai, comes to life. Shinsekai 新世界 literally means “The New World” in Chinese kanji characters. At the turn of the century, Shinsekai was one of Osaka’s largest onion plantations. In 1902, the area was developed for the 5th (and last) Japan National Industrial Exhibition, held from 1877 - 1903 to promote industrial growth and the fine arts. The Exhibition’s success gave birth to the “The New World”, and it was aptly named Shinsekai.
To get to Shinsekai, take the red, Midosuji Subway line to Doubutsuen Mae (動物園前) station. The station gets its name from the Tennoji Doubutsuen (or Zoo) which is in front of the station. From Exit 1, head north and under the track to Jan-jan Yokocho, ジャンジャン横丁 a narrow street that seemingly hasn’t changed in 50 years. Words of caution: Beware Of Cyclists! The area has a negative reputation and an image as a dangerous place, but it’s also an area with a unique joie de vivre.
After walking 100 or so meters through Jan-jan Yokocho, you will be greeted by plenty of colorful signboards in Shinsekai Kouen Hondori. Pachinko shops, retro cinemas, and Kushi-katsu restaurants line the streets.
Q. What is kushi-katsu? A. Skewers of breaded, deep-fried stuff!

The locals swear by it and say, “you have not been to Shinsekai if you have not tried the Kushi-katsu.” Osaka’s three most famous foods are Takoyaki, Okonomiyaki and Kushi-katsu. Kushi-katsu is to Shinsekai as pizza is to Napoli.

There are all sorts of kushi-katsu to choose from: meats, veggies, seafood and others, coated in a flour, covered with bread crumbs, and deep-fried, crispy golden. Kushi-katsu is cheap, usually no more than JPY 100-150 per skewer. When the kushi-katsu arrives, dip it in the Worcestershire-sauce, or sprinkle whatever other condiments are provided. And, when eating kushi-katsu, there is one universal rule: absolutely NO double-dipping! Other customers will dip in the same communal saucepot, so courtesy is appreciated. A free flow of cabbage is usually served with any kushi-katsu order.
Daruma is a popular shop, has 3 locations in the Shinsekai area, and is one of the most famous chain-restaurants for kushi-katsu. However, other tasty kushi-katsu restaurants are worth visiting, with some offering all-you-can-eat courses, starting at JPY 2,000.
If you don’t fancy deep-fried food, various other choices abound. Sushi Kan is a local favorite. Practice your Japanese or point to the large display case at the counter and the master will roll your sushi on the spot. There are also numerous stalls selling takoyaki and okonomiyaki. You can eat in front of the stalls under the lights of Tsutenkaku, Osaka’s answer to the Eiffel Tower.

Tsutenkaku, or “The Tower Reaching to Heaven” is the symbol of Shinsekai. After satisfying your appetite, why not head to there for a great view of Osaka? And don’t forget to make a wish and rub the soles of Billiken’s feet! Billiken came to Japan in 1912 from the United States. If you place a coin in the donation box and rub the soles of his well-worn feet, your wish may come true! The most popular Billiken - is the one in Tsutenkaku, smiling to visitors on the 5th floor.
Finally, make Spa World your last stop before heading back to your hotel. Though the city of Osaka has several natural hot springs, Spa World has the answer for an unforgettable onsen (hot baths) experience. An enormous bathhouse with eight floors of onsens, pools, a restaurant, and fitness center, Spa World even has hotel rooms. The main attractions are the large, hot baths on the 4th and 6th floors. The 4th floor European Zone features baths resembling Ancient Rome, Greece, Atlantis, and Italy's Grotto Azzura. The 6th floor Asian Zone boasts Japanese-style onsen, cedar tubs, an open-air bath, Balinese mudbaths, and Indian salt sauna. You can bathe up to 10pm or book a room in Spa World’s hotel.

By Jeannie Gan and Barry Louie